STEP 1    Put a large pan of water on to boil.

STEP 2    Mix together finely chopped meat of your choice, pecorino and parmesan.

STEP 3    Beat the eggs in a medium bowl and season with a little black pepper. Set everything aside.

STEP 4    Add 1 tsp salt to the boiling water, add spaghetti and when the water comes back to the boil, cook at a constant simmer, covered, for 10 minutes or until al dente (just cooked).

STEP 5    Squash 2 peeled plump garlic cloves, just to bruise it.

STEP 6    While the spaghetti is cooking, drop butter into a large frying pan or wok and, as soon as the butter has melted, add the pancetta and garlic. Leave to cook on a medium heat for about 5 minutes, stirring often, until the pancetta is golden and crisp. Discard garlic, it’s done its job!

STEP 7    Keep the heat under the pancetta on low. When the pasta is ready, lift it from the water with a pasta fork or tongs and put it in the frying pan with the pancetta.

STEP 9    Mix most of the cheese in with the eggs, keeping a small handful back for sprinkling over later.

STEP 10   Take the pan of spaghetti and pancetta off the heat. Now quickly pour in the eggs and cheese. Using the tongs or a long fork, lift up the spaghetti so it mixes easily with the egg mixture, which thickens but doesn’t scramble, and everything is coated.

STEP 11    Add extra pasta cooking water to keep it moist (several tablespoons should do it). Season with a little salt, if needed.

STEP 12   Use a long-pronged fork to twist the pasta on to the serving plate or bowl. Serve immediately with a little sprinkle of the remaining cheese and some black pepper. If the dish does get a little dry before serving, splash in some more hot pasta water and the glossy sauciness will be revived!